Friday, August 13, 2010

From the Cabin Kitchen: Homemade Tortillas

Sometimes it surprises me that I've turned into the sort of person who routinely makes their own tortillas. A few years ago, I probably would have been suspicious of anyone who openly admitted such a thing. I mean, it's one thing to like to cook, and even to try to eat most meals at home, but going to all the trouble of making your own tortillas? Seriously, isn't that taking it a bit far? Don't I have better things to do?

Well, no, actually, I don't. And you may not either if you try these, because it turns out, this whole concept that making tortillas is hard, or even terribly time consuming, is a myth. If speed and convenience are your primary goal, then, yes, you probably should grab the Pepitos at the grocery store. But, if you should find yourself with an extra 45 minutes or so (most of which time your dough is resting, so it's not like you actually have to do anything more strenuous than lie on the couch and read a magazine), give these a try, and my guess is that, like me, you'll never again be able to go back to those plasticy tasting things they sell at the grocery store. You've been warned.

There's such a humble satisfaction to be found in any bread making venture, and tortillas, although a bit quicker and easier to throw together than most traditional loaf breads, are no exception. Plus, you get to use the rolling pin. And unlike a cumbersome, temperamental pie crust, tortilla dough is generally pretty easy going, an all around good sport, keeping its shape and not flaking off into wispy fragments of a doughy mess. Me and pie crusts, we have some issues, if you can't tell.

The whole process settles into a comforting routine: roll out the dough, cook in the skillet, toss, repeat. It's easy as pie (well, much easier as we've already established), but it requires just enough focus to keep you mindful and grounded in the moment, which I so often need and appreciate. Sometimes it's on the craziest, most hectic days that I crave some kitchen time the most. To clear my head, and really focus on a concrete, tangible, doable task at hand. I may not be able to control everything in this world, but by golly, I can roll, cook, and toss.

The recipe below is a bit unorthodox in that it uses both flour and corn meal. I know, it's scandalous, and to the purists in either camp, you're probably skeptical. But bear with me. It's the combination that makes these so special. Thanks to the flour, they're soft and fluffy, but with the addition of the corn meal, they still retain the chewy denseness of a corn tortilla. See, everybody wins!

Adapted from the King Arthur Flour website:

  • 1 1/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 2/3 cup yellow cornmeal
  • 4 T. vegetable oil
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 1 tsp. salt

1. In a medium sized bowl, mix together the flour, cornmeal, salt, and oil. Gradually mix in the water. Knead briefly until the dough is smooth.

2. Divide the dough into 10 pieces. Round the pieces into balls, flatten them slightly, and allow them to rest, covered, for at least 30 minutes. This resting period improves the texture of the dough by giving the flour time to absorb the water, and it also allows the gluten to relax, making the tortillas easier to roll out.

2. Preheat an ungreased pan (I always use cast iron) over medium heat. Working with one piece of dough at a time (keep the remaining balls covered), roll the balls out until they're about 8 inches in diameter. (If, like me, you have a small child helping you do this, your shapes may be on the wonky side, but no matter.) Fry the tortillas in the ungreased pan for about 45 seconds on each side (watch for small bubbles that start to appear on the surface, then flip accordingly). Stack the tortillas one on top of the other as you remove them from the pan to keep them soft and pliable. Serve warm or at room temperature. Store, tightly wrapped, in a plastic bag at room temp for a couple of days. These freeze nicely too, just make sure they are tightly wrapped.

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